Wednesday, June 28, 2017

JERUSALEM POSTCARD: JUNE 20 - 27

Several things stand out in my mind from the last few days. Two not happy events. Followed by an additional one!

MIKE KRAMER
First of all, our dear friend of some 30 years died Wednesday morning from Alzheimer's and the funeral was that same afternoon at 3 pm. Strange but Moses had asked me the day before when we visited Mt. Herzel what the Jewish customs are after death.

We took a cab to the funeral in Beit Shemesh but were able to get a ride back on a chartered bus. The rabbi from the shul in Yemin Moshe where they had lived for so many years gave the eulogy. We all laughed because Mike was known for his jokes and the rabbi totally captured his humorous as well as his charitable side. As a matter of fact, Herbie and I visited him a few days before he died. Herbie leaned over the bed and told him, tho he was essentially gone but with a breathing tube, that he was going to miss talking about their mutual friend, Sanford Bernstein, originally from the Bay Area. The rabbi made a point of talking about the friend and how they were always in competition as to who was the most charitable.

In case you have forgotten the fun story of how we met the Kramers,  Marc was a lone soldier, Jennifer was studying in Paris, it was Christmas vacation and we were meeting the kids for lunch in the Old City. I had read about a new fiber arts gallery and Herbie and I visited while waiting for the kids. Gloria was not there but Mike was. I took one look at him and said, "that's my father reincarnated"! Turns out the Kramers had moved to Israel from Chicago where my father was born. Then we brought the kids in and they exclaimed, "that's grandpa"! Of course I became a good customer of the gallery and we have been friends ever since. They "adopted" Marc while he was in the army. They visited us once in the states many years ago. I do believe we have seen them on nearly every trip here.


I took a few photos surreptitiously and had I realized how no one would see me I would have taken more. It was a fascinating burial with nine very religious men walking in circles before the body was lowered into the ground. The religious do not use coffins but wrap the body along with the tallit or prayer shawl and put it directly into the ground. Then men who looked like they worked there began shoveling dirt over the body and others shoveled small amounts of dirt after. We asked about the stones we see on graves and they are to show people visited the dead. Moses felt compelled to shovel dirt and said their Christian and Hindu funerals in India are very similar. Then men lined up and the male offspring walked between the mourners and the women did the same for the female family members. There is also a custom of washing after looking at a body.

I found it fascinating that Moses felt completely comfortable and at home with the entire service.

On Sunday we paid a shiva call. There are special chairs for the widow and an empty one with Hebrew writing on it for the deceased. I have never seen so many people at a shiva and a family member told me people have been coming all day every day. Everyone loved Mike!


THE ARMY AND THE HAREDIM (VERY RELIGIOUS)


This news has recently been in the papers but I got it first hand. Once again I took the photography course in the shuk Herbie and I took two years ago. There was a group of soldiers crowding around a merchant who was feeding them watermelon. I noticed one young man dressed in black haredi garb instead of a regular uniform. I wrongly assumed he was an interloper. Some young religious men who wish to serve in the army are unable to go home to their neighborhoods and family. They are shunned and, as was
teacher and 3 guys
recently reported, are stoned and sometimes worse. The soldier who answered my question pointed out this was a religious unit and they were all wearing black kippot (plural of kippah). Then they asked me to take photos of them and post on the internet. If someone wants to tell me how to do that I will.

Every trip I feel I learn something and hopefully pass on to all of you as well. It's not always pleasant but it is interesting!


THE MUNICIPALITY OF JERUSALEM

It never ceases to amaze me the free events the city offers its inhabitants. To celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the Reunification of the City, there is a sound and light show on the outer wall between city hall and Jaffa Gate, running thru June. It features historical milestones in history plus numerous citizens of all ages popping out of windows telling how much they love the city and why. Then several well known Israeli male and female singers entertain on the outcroppings of the wall. There is music playing over loud speakers and while I was taking pics I found my body moving to the infectious melodies.

It was so enjoyable I took Herbie and Moses some days later. They too thought it was wonderful. The use of videos has so enhanced our enjoyment of performances, theater, etc. here and at home and this is the perfect example.

In a few days another free light show will open with artists creating pieces of art out of LED lights   throughout the old city and on one of the outer walls. We saw this show a couple of years ago and I am looking forward to this fabulous event.


CELEBRATORY BRUNCH WITH THE LANGS IN TEL AVIV
(Minus Benjamin who is in SF.)
Daniella and Simone are food mavens and Daniella chose a wonderful place, Maysha, in a boutique hotel, Mendeli on Rehov Mendeli.  They had taken Benjamin there before he left for the states. Fabulous meal celebrating Simon's18th birthday and her graduation from high school. After the brunch she passed her driving test on the first try and was accepted into the Sheirut Leumi position in the money laundering and counter terrorism government office. She is so happy! Sheirut Leumi is the year-long volunteer service for those who are unable to go into the military.


DINNER WITH MARC, CHANA TSIPORA, TALIA AND BABY NECHAMA
(not to confuse things, we were told we are to call the baby Rachel but then I hear the family calling her Nechama so go figure!)


And what a dinner it was! We dined outside at our other favorite Italian place Luciano, in Mamilla. The baby entertained throughout and she and Moses were pretty darn funny! She was lying in her pram part of the time and in everyone's arms the rest. He would look at her and make noises and faces and she would imitate him. And the waitstaff kept coming over to see her. She could win a Miss Personality contest! Chana Tsipora and Talia were with us but Shalom Simcha was on a school day trip.


BRUNCH WITH THE LADIES


Rivi, Ashira, Talia (Chana Tsipora is still in school till next week) and I had brunch at their invitation and the two babies joined us.  Eighteen-month-old Ruti took a nap part of the time but Miss Congeniality at ten months was awake throughout! I loved the way Ruti tried to smother her cousin Rachel and "kill her with kindness"! Rivi's English is coming along and she is really trying. The girls had to translate much of the conversation but she and I can communicate with help. I am so proud of both Rivi who will be starting an arts education program to become a teacher and Ashira who is getting her bachelor's degree and teaching English at a top girls school and to adults. With husbands who learn (read study) the wives need to work but these two are very motivated to do what interests them.










 NEVER A DULL MOMENT HERE
After Moses, Herbie and I had dinner tonight,
I took the train to the shuk as I always do to get to my apartment. As I was walking across the street, a police car pulled up on the tracks facing the train going towards where I had come from. Shortly after, all the passengers got off and the police cordoned off the train. Someone left a backpack and the bomb squad of one arrived about 10 minutes later. Naturally my camera and I were amongst the crowd that gathered. We were told to stand back and a very short time later the one man
bomb squad departed from the train holding an empty backpack. I made the mistake of walking towards his vehicle and snapping a photo closer and he caught me. He was pissed because I didn't ask first. Asked me if I spoke Hebrew and then read me the riot act in
English how I must ask before taking photos but that it was OK. In view of the fact the photographer who led the class in the shuk had said the same thing, I asked as I took a couple more walking thru. Live and learn!


TALK ABOUT UNFORTUNATE EVENTS!
Yesterday morning I fell in my unit and ended up in the emergency room at Hadassah Hospital for 5 hours. I am not enclosing a photo as it is really gross! I hit my face next to my left eye on the hard floor and what is now red will be a shiner soon! I had 6 stitches and hope the pediatric surgeon did a good job! I could have moved elsewhere and had a plastic surgeon but chose to let the wonderful doc work on me. Everyone was so nice but Marc who had taken me and spent the whole time with me and I decided to leave before the last test result came in. It was a chest xray to make sure pneumonia didn't cause me to fall. But my chest sounded fine so I wasn't worried. I had a bad stomach in the morning and apparently fainted after going to the toilet.  Not enough water! It is just as frustrating waiting in Israel as in the US! Hopefully, by the time I arrive home on Sunday, July 9, I will be (nearly) back to my usual self!

My kids decided they didn't want me staying alone so Moses moved me to the house. I am sleeping in the basement while he is in the den and Herbie in the bedroom. It seems to be working fine as my husband has changed to a much much nicer person! I am thrilled as his nastiness had caused me to move in the first place.

The landlord could not have been nicer.  He said if he rents the place during this week, he will reimburse me whatever he gets. At least I stayed two of the three weeks!

I loved staying near the shuk and plan to have a special blog just about the shuk. Now I have to walk there! Being across the street was a real treat. Walking thru there at all hours of the night and day exposed a new way of life here and it was a wonderful experience!  Stay tuned....
 

Thursday, June 22, 2017

POSTCARD FROM JERUSALEM: JUNE 12 - 19, 2017



A FEW SNIPPETS BEFORE ARRIVING
While waiting at the gate at SFO, a family entered—a very pretty mother with three very pretty teenage daughters and a younger son. They sat on the floor and proceeded to blow up a large balloon appearing to be getting ready for a celebration. I couldn't see what they were doing until Dad entered, sat on a chair and was adorned with a golden crown. Then they broke out in Happy 50th Birthday Dad and ate their cupcakes. It was such a nice family event to watch. No, I didn't take a photo as I felt tho it was in public, it was their private moment.

Has anyone ever had a seatmate on an airplane who actually changed into jammies and slippers? No? Well I had one, a male Professor of Architectural History at Stanford, no less! I had all I could do to keep a straight face when he told me he was going to change! And yes, he changed back before arrival!

In a long line for Passport check and trying to use my phone to message the arranged driver as  instructed, it didn't matter what I did, it just didn't work from my US phone to an Israeli number. The Israeli phone company was already on my phone as soon as we landed. (My Israeli number kicks in on the 15th.)

A young woman in back of me offered me her phone. She was wearing her head covered which meant she was Orthodox and married. I accepted her kind offer. One thing led to another and she turned out to be married to a hairdresser, a full time mother of four and therapist and returning from Manchester where her nephew had become a bar mitzvah. Because she had been so kind and friendly, I offered her a free ride with me. It turned out she lived quite close to my rental so no problem. On the ride to Jerusalem we poured our hearts out to each other and as she got out she turned to me  and said, "I feel like I want to see you again." I hugged her and we exchanged phone numbers and email addresses. How lovely to meet someone of a younger generation and have her react to me in that way. We had a good laugh when she told me her recent very sad family story and I replied she needed a therapist!


MY PAD
Oy! It has a large bedroom, 2 other small rooms, a half descent kitchen with a few amenities, barely
OK for breakfast. Nachalot, the neighborhood, is across from the shuk which is very fun. If I understood the owner correctly, the bedroom used to be a cistern which means there is a noisy blower of some kind on all the time, but I need to turn it off at night. The
bathroom is hilarious but I must admit has great hot water pressure in the so called shower. If I were too much larger I wouldn't fit! My cosmetics are on a night table I moved outside bathroom, visible in bottom photo outside bathroom door!


view from my eating desk!
Jennifer met Deborah Sosebee, an old friend of ours from the Bay Area—here to baby sit her grandson— for coffee and then came to me to spend the night. She couldn't believe I was  actually staying in this hippy pad in a combo religious and hippy neighborhood. I think it's exciting! Definitely not the free class act Marc found for me last year! This one came at a cost from VRBO.




RANAANA
Nechama, Ashira, Jennifer
Friday afternoon Jennifer drove Herbie and me to spend Shabbat in Ranaana. Philippe and the girls made dinner so that we could visit with Ashira and her 10-month-old Nechama before leaving Jerusalem.

Simone turned 18 and graduated high school. She will be spending a year doing volunteer work as she is not eligible to go in the army.  She intends to start college the following year. Daniella did very well on the SATs and is writing her essays for college apps. Being in the Army/Air Force has influenced her future plans. It sounds to me like PR/Public Policy in the science/medical field. She is applying to Georgetown, Columbia, U of Chicago and possibly others. Her time in the military has been incredibly positive with awards and excellent feedback from higher ups. We are very proud!

We also paid a visit to Burt Edelstein at his beautiful senior living apartment. Burt is the son of Herbie's parents dear friends and the brother of Maury in case any of you San Franciscans recognize the name. He is sharp as a tack in his late 80s and very political!

While we were in Ranaana, Herbie's companion Moses took a long day trip to Nazareth, the Sea of Galilee and Jordan River. It really adds to my enjoyment to have him see the Christian sights. To refresh your collective memory, he is a devout Christian from Delhi and he enjoyed last years trip here. We will try to take him to whatever we missed before plus introducing him to new Jewish places and events. We are making him an honorary Jew/Israeli!


THE GREAT GRANDDAUGHTERS
Of course they are all adorable but Ashiras is the first Friedman of both generations to immediately
come to me! The others always preferred their Zayda/a male. She is friendly to everyone as her mother attends school and teaches English and has to leave her well tended by her Aunt Talia after her school (summer vacation) or a baby sitter or a nursery group. Another example how leaving babies in good care is healthy! Zach learns at a yeshiva so he is not always available. He claims the baby is a Stern not a Friedman which accounts for the friendliness!

Zalman's wife Rivi and the girls met us for dinner, along with Chana Tsipora and Talia with
Nechama (Ashira's), Shalom Simcha and
Marc at one of our two favorite Italian places, Pear & Apple. Deborah was our special guest.  The owner knows us by now and came out of the kitchen to entertain us and the rest of the patrons by singing Italian Opera. A good dinner and good time was had by one and all! The kids love to play on the stone cushions in the back of the City Hall. I believe it was once a temporary art installation but they seem to have kept it and rightfully so. (see below for more pics)


BATYA/SARAH BATYA
As some of you know Batya was married to Pinchas, a lovely man, on June 1. She was having such a good time dancing with all the ladies, she fell and broke both ankle bones. Had to leave her wedding party on a stretcher by ambulance! She is very happy and upbeat tho must remain housebound for quite awhile.


NEW IN THE OLD CITY
Marc and the kids found two new places in the Old City to show me. Moriah, named after Mt. Moriah, makes mostly Judaica out of leftover pieces of excavated Jerusalem stone. They add gold and diamonds from chips to larger pieces. 

The Faberge egg is incredible! Talia and Chana Tsipora purchased necklaces with their belated birthday money from us.  The manager and salesman fell in love with the girls and baby and gave them a nice discount! The other, is a large gift store with ceramics, silver, etc., for everyone's gift giving. All Israeli made and themed.


DINNER WITH THE "NEWLYWEDS"
Alexander invited us to dinner with him and Racheli at Entrecote, one of the few Kosher places they
 Zalman and Alexander with proud Zayda
will eat. Their baby is due early July so hoping to be here. Yes, that was the wedding last August! Zalman rode his bike for a short visit on his way home. I told him I was so amazed at how outgoing Alexander has become and he said marriage raises self esteem. Two terrific young men! I blew it and forgot to get a photo of Racheli as was concentrating on the two grandsons with their Zayda.


 ZAYDA AND THE GIRLS
Rivi and Ruti giving us directions
Another oy! There were four children at Rivi and Zalmans, not three, as evidenced by the photos. The difference between Zayda with Ashira's sweet, quiet 10-month-old Nechama and his behavior with 5-year-old Yael Hadassah, 3 1/2-year-old Batsheva and 18-month-old Ruti was like night and day.  He called them vilda hiya (wild animals) when he did the inciting!  He likes being one of the kids!
Herbie in his favorite position!







Sticking their tongues out!
Batxheva the leader. It's the red hair!






















bom, bom, butz
 We visited Ashira and Nechama the same day. Zayda played bom, bom, butz, a Yiddish game where he lightly bangs foreheads with little ones. This one loved it and kept bending for more! Moses recorded all of her antics as she is a real show off and so friendly. He was even down on the floor with her offering his finger as a teething implement!













CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHER
Once again Moses and I visited The Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Shortly after we were there last year, they uncovered a new window into where Christ is said to be buried. No photos allowed and too dark to sneak one. We waited in line and it looked the same to me as last visit but a window was opened in the rear.  Moses was very happy to be there again and hopes to one day bring his wife and daughter. He is most appreciative of the opportunities afforded him here in Israel. We also visited another area of the church that was blocked off last trip. The mosaic floor has a depiction of Noah's arc. Once again we left Herbie with his newspapers enjoying the sunshine and quiet in the yard.The building next door is finished and quite ugly. Looks like an institution or office building. Reminds me of the defunct Jack Tar!


JUNE 19, 1962
Couldn't resist Batman in Hebrew, Jerusalem below.
Marc's birthday today. I told him we would take him wherever he wanted.  He had read about a new place, Skyline, at the top of the Jerusalem Gardens Hotel. Even if the food was not the best Marc or any of us has had in Israel (it was), the view was worth the price.

At last, after trying since it was completed in 2008, I got the perfect photos of the Calatrava bridge near the entrance to town. In daylight it is really quite unattractive. It is known as The Chords Bridge, The Bridge of Strings or the Light Rail Bridge. We had no idea it was lit at night until we passed it the night before and it puts on quite a show. It reminds me of the Bay Bridge installation. If I knew how to video you would see one but...photos will have to do!  (see below)

His real present was a compendium of all the Batman episodes on TV.  I had seen the book when I visited my Cousin Bob in LA as he wrote two of them in the 80s (I think). We both decided it was the perfect gift for Marc as from the time he was a very young child he walked around in a batman cape! Not at all sure if he took it off just before college or earlier!!!! (Smiley face here)



ALL FOR NOW. FUN PICS FOLLOW!

Ruti

Batsheva
ChanaTsipora and Nechama
Yael Hadassah
Yael Hadassah, Shalom Simcha, Batsheva


Rivi, Ruti, Batsheva, Yael Hadassah, Uncle Shalom Simcha, Aunt Chana Tsipora


















Friday, September 2, 2016

POSTCARD FROM JERUSALEM AND RAANANA #4 AND FINAL


MEET OUR NEW GREAT GRANDDAUGHTER RACHEL
Spending this last week with Jennifer and the Lang Family in Raanana but did take the bus back to Jerusalem to see our new Great Granddaughter, Rachel. She is so tiny, birth weight three days before was 3 kilos or 6.6 pounds, and delicious! Her parents spend much of their time just contemplating their little miracle. It was very considerate of Ashira to have Rachel's debut while I was still there!





























THE DAY BEFORE HERBIE AND MOSES LEFT FOR HOME
The three of us took the 90 minute bus to Raanana and back to Jerusalem. The Langs had returned from India at 4:30 that morning and tho exhausted, hosted us for dinner. Jennifer was falling on her face but became totally animated while describing their trip and her opinions of India to Moses. We all enjoyed the "show"!







Moses admiring the Indian teas and seasonings!

ERETZ ISRAEL MUSEUM
Photo of a German sculpture with birds nests
Once again my favorite shows were at the museum: the Israel nature photographers and the  Nature Photographers of the Year sponsored by the UK Natural History Museum. I like the latter show because it has categories by age and one is 10 years and under. The entrants come from all over the world and are incredibly talented.

The ceramic show was somewhat disappointing this year except for a few outstanding pieces. One requires an explanation thus I am showing it here accompanied by the artist's statement. It's quite beautiful. A series of her mother's portraits.I found quite moving.
Simone with ceramic plate wall sculpture
A DAY IN TEL AVIV BY BUS
Daniella had two days off from the Air Force and took her grandmother to her special food haunts in Tel Aviv.  She is definitely a maven (expert) when it comes to food and unusual non alcoholic drinks.  In the Florentine area (not in the part where we went on the mural tour a few trips ago) but on this special street, is Livinsky Market. It is a haven for those who like nuts, seeds, dried fruits and spices and many other more unusual and exotic food items. As it gets trendier, more restaurants and delis are opening among the shops. We stopped at her favorite drink place and I watched with interest as a young American woman placed all kinds of plants and flowers in a blender and added soda water, popped in a straw and voila! I did take a sip and have to admit it was pretty good! What I really enjoyed was the vehicle that provides seating for the patrons of Gazoz.



Lunch was more in the center of the city and gave me a good laugh. Who expects a delicious Taqueria in Tel Aviv and with a logo of the Virgin Mary?! She is on a mural on the inside and on the napkin container in different garb.  It is a very busy place and very inexpensive and very yummy (even if there is more authentic Mexican food in California!). Facing us across the street was the Abraham Youth Hostel and someone had painted a fun sign on the fence. Who knew?!


Next stop dessert for a bowl of Acai, a frozen dessert from Brazil. It didn't appeal to me and of course I tasted it and shared it. It is basically made with berries, served in a bowl (most people order a very large one but we had the smallest) and there are numerous choices of additional ingredients of nuts, fruits, halva, you name it. It is a beautiful purple color twirled like frozen yogurt in the States with the additional items surrounding it and drizzled all over.


Since it was Friday, most everything closed early so we walked in a neighborhood containing some architectural masterpieces designated by the city as treasures. I decided next trip I want to go on a free city architectural tour and/or a Bauhaus tour. So many of these well considered buildings have been renovated and used for different things than originally intended but for the most part they are still beautiful.


SHABBAT
Friday night we had a quiet shabbat family dinner and played Rummy O. Saturday morning Jennifer and I went to a movie while the girls slept and Philippe went to shul. I can recommend this French film to one and all. Called Memories in English and Les Souvenirs in French, it was made in 2014 and released in the US in 2015 or 16 and I think is currently there. It is so apropos for those of us either dealing with aging in others or our own aging. The acting is wonderful especially the grandson and grandmother.

Quiet lunch on Saturday afternoon, more Rummy O and a few friends dropped by. I must admit it is nice to be quiet sometimes!


BIRTHDAY LUNCH
Monday was Jennifer's birthday. She and I drove to Zichron Yaacov, a small touristy town about an hour north. After walking the main street, we met two of her American friends she wanted to introduce at a restaurant owned by Tishbi, a well known winery.  One, Lori Abramson made aliyah nine years ago from Oakland. Her husband Joel had a band there which he has kept alive and now teaches guitar in a small town near Zichron.  Lori is working as an educator of educators. I had not seen her in many years and she looks the same!

Jennifer, Bruria, grandson Alon
On the way back we stopped to visit Aunt Bruria. Herbie and I had visited the family in Hadera but I sent the pictures directly to them and interested family members. Bruria is amazing and it is her relationship with her three sons and daughters-in-law and nine grandchildren and several great grandchildren that keep her going with a smile. Both our Israeli and US families are very fond of her.







BIRTHDAY DINNER


Three generations! Jennifer, Daniella, Simone et moi

Jennifer requested some place new for her birthday celebration and Philippe found a beautiful and delicious restaurant located at the Ritz Carlton in Herzaliya. The Herbert Samuel is a kosher meat restaurant but with something for all of us. The room and especially the kitchen are quite wonderful. Delicious and lovely. The company recently opened a hotel in Jerusalem that is supposed to have a good restaurant as well. The sunset was spectacular and I took numerous photos. They don't do it justice but...I tried!
















Yes, it's Photoshopped!




SIMONE THE CHEF

Starting her last year of high school, Simone has become quite a chef! She has been preparing food all summer and I intend to take some of her ideas home. They are healthy, full of vegetables and tofu and very yummy! Daniella enjoys cooking as well but being in the Air Force does not leave her much time to practice her craft. Philippe has obviously instilled in the girls his love of cooking. Not only do I enjoy eating their dishes but I enjoy watching them prepare them! Philippe and Daniella made vege pizza with home made crust for my final meal before leaving for the airport and it was delicious!









THE YITZHAK RABIN CENTER AND MUSEUM
Daniella took grandma again to a yummy meal, this time breakfast, at a local place in Tel Aviv. This small neighborhood haunt was filled with young people, many with children in tow the day before the start of school. We both had a very delicious shakshuka, the tomato, onion, pepper, egg dish. Daniella was coming from having spent the night at the air force office, something she has to do every few months.

I took the bus from Raanana and met her there. I am getting quite proficient at taking public transport! We walked through a portion of the Yarkon River park. There were families in rented boats and in the park. And I saw my first hoopoe, the national bird of Israel!

Located next to the Eretz Israel Museum in Tel Aviv, the Yitzhak Rabin Center is an educational institute for soldiers and students. The museum presents the history of the State of Israel through the life and death of Rabin. Unlike most of today's politicians, Rabin came through the ranks and served in just about every office in the State from soldier to prime minister to peace maker. There is no one left like him.

Rabin's hobby was photography.
Personally I found the museum itself to be quite confusing in the way it is laid out. After seeing the FOZ Museum in Jerusalem, I also found it to be quite behind the times in its presentation. However, the life and times of Rabin were incredibly fascinating and we all need to be reminded of the Clinton, Rabin, Arafat Oslo Accords on the White House Lawn in 1993. Unfortunately tho it resulted in Nobel Peace prizes for Rabin, Arafat and Peres, it did not result in peace. Many feel that if Rabin had lived there would have been peace. He was a trusted and much revered statesman by world leaders including those in the Arab world.

The one thing I came away with from the museum was how many wars Israel has had to fight. Many we know about, many most of us do not. Since its inception in 1948, the country has fought on more fronts than most of us can even imagine resulting in large numbers of casualties both of soldiers and civilians.

The view from the center is incredible. With all the building, Tel Aviv is a city of cranes and skyscrapers. Israel is not planning on going anywhere in the foreseeable future.  Its enemies be damned!


I wrote this on the plane but had to wait till I arrived home to send. Till next trip...




Some fun photos follow!

Yes, it is a jeep covered in grass!
Herbie, ever the dirty old man!
Who's the entertainer?

Mamilla shopping mall teaching sharing...

Everyone buys lottery tickets!


It reads that in this space one car or ten bikes!






and my favorite picture...

MOSES WENT TO BETHLEHEM